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The Vegetable Garden in February

Linda — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 12:04:38 +0000

Jobs to do in the vegetable garden or allotment in February. Click the links to find out more about gardening tasks and specific vegetables.

Seeds to sow indoors in a heated greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill:

Greenhouse Cucumbers
Leeks
Onions
Greenhouse Tomatoes

Seeds to sow outdoors where they are to grow. Check that the soil is workable and not too cold. A couple of weeks before sowing your seed cover the patch of soil with horticultural fleece or polythene sheets to help warm it up then just before sowing prepare the soil:

Peas
Broad Beans
Radishes
Turnip

Plants to plant outside in the ground. Before planting seedlings prepare the soil:

Shallots
Rhubarb

Other tasks to do in the vegetable garden:

Dig over the soil if it is not too wet or cold
Cover establishd Rhubarb to force an early crop
Chit Seed Potatoes
Check for wind damage

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The Vegetable Garden in January - Jobs to do in the vegetable garden or allotment in JanuaryTweet ...
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Time to Force your Rhubarb

Linda — Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:32:39 +0000

Rhubarb is a vegetable (not fruit) loved by many and extremely easy to grow as long as you give it the room.

Rhubarb can be grown from seed sown in April but it is much better to plant "crowns" to ensure a good strong plant and fruitful crop. You can expect to get 5 to 10 years from your plant so they are very good value. The only drawback is that you will not be able to pull your crop until the plant is a couple of years old so you need to be patient in the early days.

Plant crowns during November and December ideally, but you can plant up to March.

We are going to order two varieties for our allotment Rhubarb 'Fulton's Strawberry Surprise' which was voted the best flavoured Rhubarb in the RHS trials and Rhubarb 'Victoria' which will be ready to pull after 2 years.

When planting choose a sunny spot in the garden or on the allotment and dress each year with well-rotted compost or farmyard manure. Every five years or so lift each plant, divide into three or four smaller plants and replant or give some to your friends or neighbours.

Rhubarb does not have many troubles but it may suffer from Crown Rot where the buds begin to rot and the sticks become thin and dull. There is no cure for this so you will have to pull up the plants and burn them, don't replant Rhubarb in the same area. You may also see signs of Honey Fungus; white streaks in the dead tissue of the crown and orange toadstools around the plants. Dig out all the roots and burn.

The sticks, or stalks, can be left to develop for pulling between April and July or they can be "forced" from December or January to provide a crop in February or March.

To force your crop just cover the plant with a upturned bucket or large plant pot with the hole covered up, or invest in a Rhubarb Forcer for a more elegant look. Here are a few examples from Crocus.co.uk.


£54.99	£59.99	£69.99

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How to Grow Carrots

Linda — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 15:24:59 +0000

Carrot Go to Carrot Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Unless growing carrots for show purposes grow them as close as possible to avoid having to weed. Water during dry periods. Pull up small carrots from June and lift the main crop in October and store between layers of sand. Keep in a cool, dry place checking occasionally for any that may be rotting. They should keep until March.
Early March under glass, mid March outdoors to Mid August	n/a	Deep, fertile soil. For long rooted stock the soil must be sandy. Prepare seed bed 2-3 weeks prior to sowing and do not add manure or compost	Sow thinly and thin out seedlings to 2-3ins apart and 6ins between rows.	Early June to late December	Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to two weeks. For freezing use small carrots, blanch for 5 mins and use within 12 months	Top and tail. No need to remove the skin unless they are old. Only just cover the carrots with salted water and boil for 10-20 mins.

Carrot Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Black Rot	Blackened Carrot Roots seen on stored carrots	Burn diseased roots	Store properly and do not use the same land for carrots next year
Carrot Fly	Reddish leaves which wilt in the sun. Seedlings die and mature roots are riddled with holes and will rot	None	Don't grow near tall plants, sow thinly and destroy all thinnings
Clayburn	Not serious but will produce blackened roots	None	Dig out any clay in the soil before sowing
Carrot-Willow Aphid	Distorted, discoloured and stunted leaves and weak plants. Transmits Motley Dwarf Virus.	Spray at first sign of attack	None
Fanging	Forked roots	None	Don't add manure or compost prior to sowing. Don't make beds too firm
Green Top	Tops of carrots are green caused by exposure to the sun	None	Earth up around the carrots
Motley Dwarf Virus	Discoloured leaves, reduced growth and yield. Spread by Carrot-Willow Aphid.	None	Spray young carrots
Small Roots	Small carrots	None	Dig soil deeply and break up any clay by adding well-rotted manure or compost
Sclerotinia Rot	Mouldy Roots found on stored carrots	None	Ensure roots are firm and disease free before storing
Splitting	Split roots caused by heavy rain. These carrots will not store successfully	None but can still be eaten	Water regularly in dry weather and apply a mulch to conserve moisture
Swift Moth	Hollowed-out roots caused by caterpillars	None	Use Chlorophos to control
Violet Root Rot	Mouldy roots and yellowing leaves	None	Rotate crops

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How to Grow Brussels Sprouts

Linda — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 14:53:55 +0000

Brussels Sprouts Go to Brussels Sprouts Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Do not grow Brussels Sprouts in the same plot more than once every three years and ideally it will have grown peas or beans previously. Dig the soil deeply in winter and leave several months before planting to ensure firm soil. Lime to aim for a pH of 6.5-7.5. Plant firmly. Sow in a seedbed and transplant to a permanent bed. Transplant carefully and avoid drying out. By growing both early and late varieties you can be picking Sprouts from September to March. Earth up the stems in Autumn and stake tall varieties. Harvest with the lower sprouts are walnut sized and tightly closed. Work up the stem.
Early March under glass or mid March outdoors until mid April	Early May to end of June	Ensure the ground is firm with adequate humus. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot.	Sow thinly and 6 inches between rows. Transplant when seedlings are 4-6ins and leave 24ins between plants.	Mid September to end March.	Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to three days. For freezing, blanch for 3 mins and use within 12 months	Cut off the stalk and remove outer leaves. Cut a cross in the base and wash in cold water. Add 1ins water to a pan and bring to the boil. Add sprouts slowly so the water does not stop boiling. Cover and cook for 7-8 mins.

Brussels Sprouts Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Boron Deficiency	Young leaves are distorted and heads of cauliflowers are small and bitter. Brown patches on the curds.	Spray at first signs of deficiency	Apply borax before planting
Blown Brussels Sprouts	Open, leafy sprouts instead of tight button ones.	Remove blown sprouts	Ensure plenty of organic matter is added to the soil prior to planting and that the ground is well compacted. Ensure site is sunny and well watered.
Black Rot	Yellowing leaves with black veins. Will kill seedlings and mature plants are stunted.	None	Rotate crops
Cutworm	Large grey or brown caterpillars attack young plants at night and stems are severed below ground. Leaves and roots may also be eaten.	Hoe the soil around the plant during June and July and destroy caterpillars as they are found	Rake Chlorophos into the soil prior to planting
Chafer Grubs	Wilting leaves. Fat, curved grubs may be seen in the soil. The plants will die.	None	Destroy grubs as they are found during autumn digging and rake Chlorophos into the soil prior to planting
Club Root	Discoloured leaves wilt in the sun. Plants will die or grow slowly.	None	Lime well and ensure the soil is well drained. Dip transplant roots in thiophanate-methyl before planting. Rotate crops
Diamond-Back Moth	Green caterpillars fed on the underside of leaves.	Spray at first sign of attack	None
Downy Mildew	Yellowing of upper surface with white furry fungus growth beneath.	Spray at first stage of disease	Sow seeds in sterilised compost. Do not over-crowd and don't raise seedlings where the disease has been before.
Flea Beetle	Lots of small, round holes in leaves. Seedlings can be killed.	Spray at the first sign of attack. Water plants well in dry weather.	Treating seeds with an insecticidal seed dressing will prevent early attacks
Frost	Can kill plants if it reaches the roots. Affected leaves are easily attacked by fungi or bacteria.	Burn damaged leaves	Ensure plants are firmed well when transplanting
Gall Weevil	Swellings form close to ground level. Crops are rarely affected.	Not really needed.	Apply a soil-pest killer
Leaf Spot (Ring Spot)	Brown rings on mature leaves.	Burn diseased leaves and spray	Do not plant brassicas in the same spot next season
Mealy Aphid	Waxy, greyish "greenflies" appear underneath leaves. Leaves curl and turn yellow.	Spray at the first sign of attack	Burn affected plants
Magnesium Deficiency	Yellowing between the veins of older leaves.	Apply a tonic around the plant and a fertiliser containing magnesium	Incorporate compost into the soil during Autumn digging
Manganese Deficiency	Similar in look to magnesium deficiency but tends to start on young leaves.	Apply a tonic around the plant	Incorporate compost into the soil during Autumn digging
Pigeons	Soft portion of leaves are eaten.	None	Netting is the only viable form of prevention
Slugs and Snails	Leaves and stems eaten. Young plants particularly at risk.	Use slug pellets or add nematodes to the soil	Keep the site clear of rubbish
White Blister (White Rust)	White spots on leaves. Growth stunted and plants might die.	Burn diseased leaves and thin out plants to avoid over-crowding	Do not grow brassicas the following year
Wire Stem	Base of stems is black. Seedlings die.	None	Avoid growing seedlings in cold and wet soil. Avoid over-crowding
Whiptail	Thin, straplike leaves. Molybdenum deficiency.	Spray repeatedly	Ensure soil is adequately limed

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The Vegetable Garden in January

Linda — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 14:00:36 +0000

Jobs to do in the vegetable garden or allotment in January. Click the links to find out more about gardening tasks and specific vegetables.

Seeds to sow indoors in a heated greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill:

Leeks
Onions
Greenhouse Tomatoes

Radishes

Plants to plant outside in the ground. Before planting seedlings prepare the soil:

Rhubarb

Other tasks to do in the vegetable garden:

Dig over the soil if it is not too wet or cold
Cover establishd Rhubarb to force an early crop

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Jobs to do in January - In the Flower Garden: Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs Prune standard roses Take hardwood cuttings from shrubs Remove dead stems and leaves from perennials Tidy grasses In the Vegetable Garden: Fork over empty beds and mix in compost Plant fruit trees Prune Gooseberry bushes Warm up beds for early crops Tie raspberry and blackberry canes to support ...

Jobs to do in January

Linda — Sun, 01 Jan 2012 00:01:42 +0000

In the Flower Garden:

Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs
Prune standard roses
Take hardwood cuttings from shrubs
Remove dead stems and leaves from perennials
Tidy grasses

In the Vegetable Garden:

Fork over empty beds and mix in compost
Plant fruit trees
Prune Gooseberry bushes
Warm up beds for early crops
Tie raspberry and blackberry canes to support wires

In the Greenhouse:

Monitor heaters to ensure they are working efficiently
Take root cuttings of perennials
Wash greenhouse glass to let in more light
Water plants when the compost is dry
Regularly deadhead over-wintering plants

Lawns:

Continue to Remove fallen leaves
Don't walk on frozen turf
Have the mower overhauled and to make sure that the other lawn tools are ready for use in the spring
Laying turf is possible during fine spells

General:

Recycle your Christmas tree
Order seed potatoes, onion sets and garlic
Order early from seed catalogues
Dig compost into empty areas of soil
Add shredded winter prunings to your compost heap

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Looking after your lawn in Winter

Linda — Fri, 09 Dec 2011 12:38:25 +0000

Try to rest the lawn as much as possible during winter. If practical keep off when wet or frosty, as the grass plants are not actively growing; they will not repair themselves if damaged until the spring.

Mowing

Only mow the lawn if necessary; this will depend upon weather conditions and temperatures at the time. Do not mow if heavy frosts are expected or if the ground is very wet.

Clear leaves and debris

Use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris. Specialist leaf sweepers and lawn vacuums are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns; although in winter it is better to keep off with heavier machines.

Aeration

Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.

Dealing with worms

Remember worms improve the nutrient content of a soil and are beneficial to the soil structure. Worm casts are best left to dry and then swept or brushed away with a stiff brush.

As leaves fall from the trees use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris.

Service mower

Service or replace your mower if necessary ready for the next growing season. As always make sure that the blades are in good condition and are sharp.

This advice is courtesy of Rolawn Direct

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Jobs to do in December

Linda — Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:01:30 +0000

In the Flower Garden:

Move patio containers to a sheltered spot if very cold
Plant out Wallflowers
Plant out new rose bushes
Take root cuttings of suitable perennials
Move shrubs growing in the wrong place

In the Vegetable Garden:

Take hardwood cuttings from healthy fruit bushes
Start pruning apple and pear trees
Cut down Jerusalem artichokes
Prune Gooseberry bushes Sow winter lettuces

In the Greenhouse:

Monitor heaters to ensure they are working efficiently
Ventilate greenhouses on warm, dry days
Plant up Hippeastrums (Amaryllis) bulbs
Treat timber with preservative
Use rainwater to keep potted azaleas moist

Lawns:

Brush away fallen leaves
Keep off the lawn when it is wet or frozen
Turfing is possible during fine spells

General:

Wrap insulation around all outside taps and pipes
Order early from seed catalogues
Dig compost into beds empty areas of soil
Check tree and climber ties are secure
Keep bird feeders clean

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How to Grow Garlic

Linda — Thu, 24 Nov 2011 15:49:53 +0000

Garlic Click here for Garlic Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Garlic grows well in any sunny, fertile site, add organic matter or general-purpose fertiliser before planting. It is best to buy garlic cloves from a garden centre rather than use garlic bought from the supermarket. Break up the bulbs into individual cloves and plant just below the surface of the soil about 6ins (15cms) apart. If you are troubled by birds, cover the garlic with horticultural fleece to stop them pulling up the cloves.
Not grown from seed	Plant cloves late autumn or early winter although some can be planted in Spring.	Choose an open, sunny site. Good, free draining soil is required. Dig over the soil in early winter and incorporate organic matter. Firm before planting and add a general fertiliser. Keep the ground weed-free and water only in very hot weather. Feed occasionally. Break off any flower stems as they appear but there should be very few.	Plant cloves 6ins apart.	Garlic is mature once the foliage has turned yellow and topples over. Carefully lift them with a fork or hand fork. Lay out the bulbs to dry in an airy place.	When rustling dry they can be stored in ventilated containers until you're ready to use them.	Garlic has lots of uses in the kitchen and can be added to most dishes.

Garlic Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Rust	Orange spots and blotches on surface of leaves.	None. Lift and burn affected plants	Don't grow garlic on affected ground for three years.
White Rot (Mouldy Nose)	Foliage turns yellow and wilts. Fluffy white mould on base of bulbs and round black bodies appear in the fungus.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	Don't grow garlic or others from the onion family on affected ground for three years.
Top Sets	Garlic cloves form on the stalk.	Gather and use the top sets in the usual way.	This is due to changeable weather in spring so there isn't anything to be done.

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How to Grow Onions

Linda — Thu, 24 Nov 2011 15:23:05 +0000

Onions Click here for Onion Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Onions can be grown from Sets or from Seed. Onion sets are immature bulbs which have been specially grown for planting. Sets tend to be easier and safer to grow than seed but they are much more expensive. You can buy heat-treated sets which prevents bolting (running to seed). They take 11-14 days to sprout and around 20 weeks to mature. Fungicide-treated and pelleted seeds are available which both help germination. Germination time is 21 days and it takes 22 weeks for spring-sown varieties to mature and 46 weeks for August-sown varieties.
For an August or September crop sow late February to early April when the ground is workable. For an earlier crop sow in mid August. Sow under glass in January, harden off in March and transplant outdoors in April	Plant sets mid March to mid April. Seeds are sown where they are to grow.	Choose an open, sunny site. Good, free draining soil is required but seeds need a fine textured soil with a high organic content. Dig over the soil in early winter and incorporate compost. Form before planting and add a general fertiliser. Keep the ground weed-free and water when the weather is dry. Feed occasionally. Break off any flower stems as they appear. Stop watering once the onions have swollen and pull back the earth to expose the bulb surface to the sun.	Plant sets 4ins apart and thin seedlings to 4ins apart.	Onions are mature once the foliage has turned yellow and topples over. Leave them for two weeks then carefully lift. This is best done in dry weather.	Onions to be stored should be dried by spreading them out in trays. They will take 7-21 days depending in the size. Store in trays or tie to a length of cord to hang up. Choose a cool, well-lit place. They will keep until late Spring	For the freezer, cut into slices and blanch for 1 minute. Onions have lots of uses in the kitchen and can be added to most soups, stews, casseroles etc. If frying, fry slowly in order for the onion to soften before browning.

Onion Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Onion Fly	Yellow, drooping leaves. Maggots burrow into the bases and kill young plants.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	Rake Chlorophos into soil before showing or planting. Sets are less prone than seeds.
Bolting	Premature production of flower-heads.	Cut off flower stalks and lift as usual. Do not store.	Don't sow or plant too early in the season. Ensure soil is firmed well before sowing or planting
Stem & Bulb Eelworm	Swollen, distorted foliage. Young plants die and older plants product soft bulbs.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	Do not grow onions, peas, beans or strawberries on land previous infected with this disease.
Saddleback	On harvesting, bulbs are split at the base. Caused by heavy rain or watering after a dry period.	None. Use affected bulbs immediately.	Keep well watered during dry spells.
Set Division	Onions from sets produce twin bulbs.	None	Plant sets in good soil and keep well watered in dry spells.
Smut	Black spots and blotches on leaves and bulbs of young plants. Twisted and thickened leaves. More likely in leeks than onions.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	Don't grow leeks or onions on affected ground for eight years.
Rust	Orange spots and blotches on surface of leaves. More likely in leeks than onions.	Remove and burn affected leaves.	Don't grow leeks or onions on affected ground for one season.
White Tip	Tips of leek leaves turn white and papery in autumn.	Spray with Dithane at first signs. Lift and burn badly affected plants.	Don't grow leeks or onions on affected ground for one season.
Bull Neck (Thick Neck)	Abnormally thick necks means the bulbs will not store successfully.	None	Don't use too much manure. Use a feed with more potash than nitrogen. Don't sow seed too deeply.
Downy Mildew	Downy, grey mould covering leaves. Leave die back slowly and shrivel. Bulbs are soft and don't store well.	Spray with Dithane at first signs. Repeat fortnightly.	Grow onions on a difference site each year and ensure soil is well drained.
Leek Moth	Tunnelled leaves. Caterpillars feed inside young leaves leaving the outer skin. Also attacks leeks.	Spray with a contact insecticide at first signs of attack. Destroy badly affected leaves.	None
White Rot (Mouldy Nose)	Foliage turns yellow and wilts. Fluffy white mould on base of bulbs and round black bodies appear in the fungus.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	None. Don't grow onions on affected land for eight years.
Shanking	The centre leaves turn yellow and collapse, outer leaves follow later. Evil-smelling slime within scales.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	None. Don't grow onions on affected land for several years.
Neck Rot	During storage a grey mould appears near the neck. Bulbs are soft and rotten.	None. Remove rotten bulbs.	Dist seeds and sets with benomyl before planting. Dry bulbs thoroughly before storing. Don't store soft bulbs or bulbs with green necks.

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