The Gardening Register» Fruit & Veg

Time to Force your Rhubarb

Linda — Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:32:39 +0000

Rhubarb is a vegetable (not fruit) loved by many and extremely easy to grow as long as you give it the room.

Rhubarb can be grown from seed sown in April but it is much better to plant "crowns" to ensure a good strong plant and fruitful crop. You can expect to get 5 to 10 years from your plant so they are very good value. The only drawback is that you will not be able to pull your crop until the plant is a couple of years old so you need to be patient in the early days.

Plant crowns during November and December ideally, but you can plant up to March.

We are going to order two varieties for our allotment Rhubarb 'Fulton's Strawberry Surprise' which was voted the best flavoured Rhubarb in the RHS trials and Rhubarb 'Victoria' which will be ready to pull after 2 years.

When planting choose a sunny spot in the garden or on the allotment and dress each year with well-rotted compost or farmyard manure. Every five years or so lift each plant, divide into three or four smaller plants and replant or give some to your friends or neighbours.

Rhubarb does not have many troubles but it may suffer from Crown Rot where the buds begin to rot and the sticks become thin and dull. There is no cure for this so you will have to pull up the plants and burn them, don't replant Rhubarb in the same area. You may also see signs of Honey Fungus; white streaks in the dead tissue of the crown and orange toadstools around the plants. Dig out all the roots and burn.

The sticks, or stalks, can be left to develop for pulling between April and July or they can be "forced" from December or January to provide a crop in February or March.

To force your crop just cover the plant with a upturned bucket or large plant pot with the hole covered up, or invest in a Rhubarb Forcer for a more elegant look. Here are a few examples from Crocus.co.uk.


£54.99	£59.99	£69.99

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How to Grow Carrots

Linda — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 15:24:59 +0000

Carrot Go to Carrot Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Unless growing carrots for show purposes grow them as close as possible to avoid having to weed. Water during dry periods. Pull up small carrots from June and lift the main crop in October and store between layers of sand. Keep in a cool, dry place checking occasionally for any that may be rotting. They should keep until March.
Early March under glass, mid March outdoors to Mid August	n/a	Deep, fertile soil. For long rooted stock the soil must be sandy. Prepare seed bed 2-3 weeks prior to sowing and do not add manure or compost	Sow thinly and thin out seedlings to 2-3ins apart and 6ins between rows.	Early June to late December	Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to two weeks. For freezing use small carrots, blanch for 5 mins and use within 12 months	Top and tail. No need to remove the skin unless they are old. Only just cover the carrots with salted water and boil for 10-20 mins.

Carrot Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Black Rot	Blackened Carrot Roots seen on stored carrots	Burn diseased roots	Store properly and do not use the same land for carrots next year
Carrot Fly	Reddish leaves which wilt in the sun. Seedlings die and mature roots are riddled with holes and will rot	None	Don't grow near tall plants, sow thinly and destroy all thinnings
Clayburn	Not serious but will produce blackened roots	None	Dig out any clay in the soil before sowing
Carrot-Willow Aphid	Distorted, discoloured and stunted leaves and weak plants. Transmits Motley Dwarf Virus.	Spray at first sign of attack	None
Fanging	Forked roots	None	Don't add manure or compost prior to sowing. Don't make beds too firm
Green Top	Tops of carrots are green caused by exposure to the sun	None	Earth up around the carrots
Motley Dwarf Virus	Discoloured leaves, reduced growth and yield. Spread by Carrot-Willow Aphid.	None	Spray young carrots
Small Roots	Small carrots	None	Dig soil deeply and break up any clay by adding well-rotted manure or compost
Sclerotinia Rot	Mouldy Roots found on stored carrots	None	Ensure roots are firm and disease free before storing
Splitting	Split roots caused by heavy rain. These carrots will not store successfully	None but can still be eaten	Water regularly in dry weather and apply a mulch to conserve moisture
Swift Moth	Hollowed-out roots caused by caterpillars	None	Use Chlorophos to control
Violet Root Rot	Mouldy roots and yellowing leaves	None	Rotate crops

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How to Grow Brussels Sprouts

Linda — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 14:53:55 +0000

Brussels Sprouts Go to Brussels Sprouts Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Do not grow Brussels Sprouts in the same plot more than once every three years and ideally it will have grown peas or beans previously. Dig the soil deeply in winter and leave several months before planting to ensure firm soil. Lime to aim for a pH of 6.5-7.5. Plant firmly. Sow in a seedbed and transplant to a permanent bed. Transplant carefully and avoid drying out. By growing both early and late varieties you can be picking Sprouts from September to March. Earth up the stems in Autumn and stake tall varieties. Harvest with the lower sprouts are walnut sized and tightly closed. Work up the stem.
Early March under glass or mid March outdoors until mid April	Early May to end of June	Ensure the ground is firm with adequate humus. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot.	Sow thinly and 6 inches between rows. Transplant when seedlings are 4-6ins and leave 24ins between plants.	Mid September to end March.	Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to three days. For freezing, blanch for 3 mins and use within 12 months	Cut off the stalk and remove outer leaves. Cut a cross in the base and wash in cold water. Add 1ins water to a pan and bring to the boil. Add sprouts slowly so the water does not stop boiling. Cover and cook for 7-8 mins.

Brussels Sprouts Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Boron Deficiency	Young leaves are distorted and heads of cauliflowers are small and bitter. Brown patches on the curds.	Spray at first signs of deficiency	Apply borax before planting
Blown Brussels Sprouts	Open, leafy sprouts instead of tight button ones.	Remove blown sprouts	Ensure plenty of organic matter is added to the soil prior to planting and that the ground is well compacted. Ensure site is sunny and well watered.
Black Rot	Yellowing leaves with black veins. Will kill seedlings and mature plants are stunted.	None	Rotate crops
Cutworm	Large grey or brown caterpillars attack young plants at night and stems are severed below ground. Leaves and roots may also be eaten.	Hoe the soil around the plant during June and July and destroy caterpillars as they are found	Rake Chlorophos into the soil prior to planting
Chafer Grubs	Wilting leaves. Fat, curved grubs may be seen in the soil. The plants will die.	None	Destroy grubs as they are found during autumn digging and rake Chlorophos into the soil prior to planting
Club Root	Discoloured leaves wilt in the sun. Plants will die or grow slowly.	None	Lime well and ensure the soil is well drained. Dip transplant roots in thiophanate-methyl before planting. Rotate crops
Diamond-Back Moth	Green caterpillars fed on the underside of leaves.	Spray at first sign of attack	None
Downy Mildew	Yellowing of upper surface with white furry fungus growth beneath.	Spray at first stage of disease	Sow seeds in sterilised compost. Do not over-crowd and don't raise seedlings where the disease has been before.
Flea Beetle	Lots of small, round holes in leaves. Seedlings can be killed.	Spray at the first sign of attack. Water plants well in dry weather.	Treating seeds with an insecticidal seed dressing will prevent early attacks
Frost	Can kill plants if it reaches the roots. Affected leaves are easily attacked by fungi or bacteria.	Burn damaged leaves	Ensure plants are firmed well when transplanting
Gall Weevil	Swellings form close to ground level. Crops are rarely affected.	Not really needed.	Apply a soil-pest killer
Leaf Spot (Ring Spot)	Brown rings on mature leaves.	Burn diseased leaves and spray	Do not plant brassicas in the same spot next season
Mealy Aphid	Waxy, greyish "greenflies" appear underneath leaves. Leaves curl and turn yellow.	Spray at the first sign of attack	Burn affected plants
Magnesium Deficiency	Yellowing between the veins of older leaves.	Apply a tonic around the plant and a fertiliser containing magnesium	Incorporate compost into the soil during Autumn digging
Manganese Deficiency	Similar in look to magnesium deficiency but tends to start on young leaves.	Apply a tonic around the plant	Incorporate compost into the soil during Autumn digging
Pigeons	Soft portion of leaves are eaten.	None	Netting is the only viable form of prevention
Slugs and Snails	Leaves and stems eaten. Young plants particularly at risk.	Use slug pellets or add nematodes to the soil	Keep the site clear of rubbish
White Blister (White Rust)	White spots on leaves. Growth stunted and plants might die.	Burn diseased leaves and thin out plants to avoid over-crowding	Do not grow brassicas the following year
Wire Stem	Base of stems is black. Seedlings die.	None	Avoid growing seedlings in cold and wet soil. Avoid over-crowding
Whiptail	Thin, straplike leaves. Molybdenum deficiency.	Spray repeatedly	Ensure soil is adequately limed

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How to Grow Garlic

Linda — Thu, 24 Nov 2011 15:49:53 +0000

Garlic Click here for Garlic Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Garlic grows well in any sunny, fertile site, add organic matter or general-purpose fertiliser before planting. It is best to buy garlic cloves from a garden centre rather than use garlic bought from the supermarket. Break up the bulbs into individual cloves and plant just below the surface of the soil about 6ins (15cms) apart. If you are troubled by birds, cover the garlic with horticultural fleece to stop them pulling up the cloves.
Not grown from seed	Plant cloves late autumn or early winter although some can be planted in Spring.	Choose an open, sunny site. Good, free draining soil is required. Dig over the soil in early winter and incorporate organic matter. Firm before planting and add a general fertiliser. Keep the ground weed-free and water only in very hot weather. Feed occasionally. Break off any flower stems as they appear but there should be very few.	Plant cloves 6ins apart.	Garlic is mature once the foliage has turned yellow and topples over. Carefully lift them with a fork or hand fork. Lay out the bulbs to dry in an airy place.	When rustling dry they can be stored in ventilated containers until you're ready to use them.	Garlic has lots of uses in the kitchen and can be added to most dishes.

Garlic Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Rust	Orange spots and blotches on surface of leaves.	None. Lift and burn affected plants	Don't grow garlic on affected ground for three years.
White Rot (Mouldy Nose)	Foliage turns yellow and wilts. Fluffy white mould on base of bulbs and round black bodies appear in the fungus.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	Don't grow garlic or others from the onion family on affected ground for three years.
Top Sets	Garlic cloves form on the stalk.	Gather and use the top sets in the usual way.	This is due to changeable weather in spring so there isn't anything to be done.

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How to Grow Onions

Linda — Thu, 24 Nov 2011 15:23:05 +0000

Onions Click here for Onion Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Onions can be grown from Sets or from Seed. Onion sets are immature bulbs which have been specially grown for planting. Sets tend to be easier and safer to grow than seed but they are much more expensive. You can buy heat-treated sets which prevents bolting (running to seed). They take 11-14 days to sprout and around 20 weeks to mature. Fungicide-treated and pelleted seeds are available which both help germination. Germination time is 21 days and it takes 22 weeks for spring-sown varieties to mature and 46 weeks for August-sown varieties.
For an August or September crop sow late February to early April when the ground is workable. For an earlier crop sow in mid August. Sow under glass in January, harden off in March and transplant outdoors in April	Plant sets mid March to mid April. Seeds are sown where they are to grow.	Choose an open, sunny site. Good, free draining soil is required but seeds need a fine textured soil with a high organic content. Dig over the soil in early winter and incorporate compost. Form before planting and add a general fertiliser. Keep the ground weed-free and water when the weather is dry. Feed occasionally. Break off any flower stems as they appear. Stop watering once the onions have swollen and pull back the earth to expose the bulb surface to the sun.	Plant sets 4ins apart and thin seedlings to 4ins apart.	Onions are mature once the foliage has turned yellow and topples over. Leave them for two weeks then carefully lift. This is best done in dry weather.	Onions to be stored should be dried by spreading them out in trays. They will take 7-21 days depending in the size. Store in trays or tie to a length of cord to hang up. Choose a cool, well-lit place. They will keep until late Spring	For the freezer, cut into slices and blanch for 1 minute. Onions have lots of uses in the kitchen and can be added to most soups, stews, casseroles etc. If frying, fry slowly in order for the onion to soften before browning.

Onion Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Onion Fly	Yellow, drooping leaves. Maggots burrow into the bases and kill young plants.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	Rake Chlorophos into soil before showing or planting. Sets are less prone than seeds.
Bolting	Premature production of flower-heads.	Cut off flower stalks and lift as usual. Do not store.	Don't sow or plant too early in the season. Ensure soil is firmed well before sowing or planting
Stem & Bulb Eelworm	Swollen, distorted foliage. Young plants die and older plants product soft bulbs.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	Do not grow onions, peas, beans or strawberries on land previous infected with this disease.
Saddleback	On harvesting, bulbs are split at the base. Caused by heavy rain or watering after a dry period.	None. Use affected bulbs immediately.	Keep well watered during dry spells.
Set Division	Onions from sets produce twin bulbs.	None	Plant sets in good soil and keep well watered in dry spells.
Smut	Black spots and blotches on leaves and bulbs of young plants. Twisted and thickened leaves. More likely in leeks than onions.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	Don't grow leeks or onions on affected ground for eight years.
Rust	Orange spots and blotches on surface of leaves. More likely in leeks than onions.	Remove and burn affected leaves.	Don't grow leeks or onions on affected ground for one season.
White Tip	Tips of leek leaves turn white and papery in autumn.	Spray with Dithane at first signs. Lift and burn badly affected plants.	Don't grow leeks or onions on affected ground for one season.
Bull Neck (Thick Neck)	Abnormally thick necks means the bulbs will not store successfully.	None	Don't use too much manure. Use a feed with more potash than nitrogen. Don't sow seed too deeply.
Downy Mildew	Downy, grey mould covering leaves. Leave die back slowly and shrivel. Bulbs are soft and don't store well.	Spray with Dithane at first signs. Repeat fortnightly.	Grow onions on a difference site each year and ensure soil is well drained.
Leek Moth	Tunnelled leaves. Caterpillars feed inside young leaves leaving the outer skin. Also attacks leeks.	Spray with a contact insecticide at first signs of attack. Destroy badly affected leaves.	None
White Rot (Mouldy Nose)	Foliage turns yellow and wilts. Fluffy white mould on base of bulbs and round black bodies appear in the fungus.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	None. Don't grow onions on affected land for eight years.
Shanking	The centre leaves turn yellow and collapse, outer leaves follow later. Evil-smelling slime within scales.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	None. Don't grow onions on affected land for several years.
Neck Rot	During storage a grey mould appears near the neck. Bulbs are soft and rotten.	None. Remove rotten bulbs.	Dist seeds and sets with benomyl before planting. Dry bulbs thoroughly before storing. Don't store soft bulbs or bulbs with green necks.

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How to Grow Beans

Linda — Thu, 24 Nov 2011 14:58:56 +0000

Beans Click here for Bean Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Broad Bean
Very easy to grow from seed with black and white scented flowers followed by the pods. Water well when pods are swelling and keep weeds down. Support is necessary for the taller varieties. Pinch off the top 3ins of growth once the beans start showing to ensure early harvest and to control blackfly. Use spent plants as a green manure. Begin picking when pods are 2-3ins long. To pick for shelling wait until the beans begin to show through the pod.
Early February under glass or late February outside until the end of May	n/a	Provide a rich, sunny, free-draining soil.	8 inches apart and 24 inches between rows	End of May to mid October	Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to one weeks. For freezing, blanch for 3 mins and use within 12 months	Small pods can be cooked whole and sliced diagonally to serve. Older pods should be shelled and cooked in boiling, salted water for 10 mins.
French Bean (also known as Dwarf Bean or Kidney Bean)
A half hardy annual which likes warm conditions and hates heavy clay soil. An attractive plant with white, pink or red flowers followed by green pods (some varieties produce purple or yellow pods). There are bushy plants and climbing plants. Keep weeds under control and support the taller varieties. Water well when the pods are swelling. Mulch in June and once harvested feed with a liquid fertiliser to produce a second crop. Start picking when pods are 4ins long and when the pods snap easily when bent. Dried beans (haricots) can be obtained by leaving the pods on the plant until they turn pale then dry indoors and store in air-tight containers.
April under glass or early May outside until the mid July	n/a	Provide a sheltered, sunny, free-draining soil.	4 inches apart and 18 inches between rows	End of June to end October	Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to one weeks. For freezing, blanch for 3 mins and use within 12 months	Can be cooked whole or sliced. Remove tops and tails and cook in boiling, salted water for 5-7 mins. Haricot beans should be placed in cold water and bought to the boil. Switch off heat and leave to stand for an hour. Drain and serve.
Runner Bean (also known as Scarlet Runner)
A very popular bean in the UK and will produce bumper crops from August until the first frosts provided that you prepare the ground well during winter. Keep well watered in dry weather and pick every other day during late summer to ensure flower production. Tie young plants to supports and protect from slugs. Keep weeds under control and mulch to conserve moisture. Pinch off the top 3ins of growth once the beans start showing to ensure early harvest and to control blackfly. Use spent plants as a green manure. Start picking once the pods are 6-8ins long.
Mid May to Mid June outdoors: End April indoors	End May	Provide a rich, sunny, free-draining soil.	9 inches apart and 18 inches between rows	Mid July to end October	Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to one weeks. For freezing: trim and slice into chunks. Blanch for 2 mins and use within 12 months	Top and Tail and remove the stringy edges. Cut into 2ins chunks and boil in salted water for 5-7 mins.

Beans Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Anthracnose	Brown sunken spots on pods.	Destroy affect plants and spray remaining plants	Rotate crops
Bean Seed Fly	A soil living grub which attack seeds which then fail to germinate or produce distorted seedlings. Mainly affects early crops.	Destroy damaged seedlings	Ensure the seed bed is properly prepared and dust the drills with Chlorophos
Black Bean Aphid	Stunted growth, damaged flowers and distorted pods.	Spray at the first sign of attack and repeat if necessary	Pinch out the tops of broad beans once four trusses of pods have formed
Birds	Seeds and seedlings eaten and damage to pods and flowers	None	Place netting over crops
Botrytis (Grey Mould)	Grey velvety mould on pods.	Burn affected pods and spray remaining crop.	Spray at flowering time if this is a known problem
Chocolate Spot	Small brown spots on leaves and dark streaks along stems.	Lift and destroy diseased plants and spray remaining plants	Apply fertiliser prior to sowing and don't sow too close together
Downy Mildew	Yellow blotches on leaves with brown mould underneath. Pods are spotted and distorted.	Spray at the first sign of disease and repeat every fortnight if necessary.	Burn affected plants after picking. Rotate crops
Foot and Root Rot	Leaves turn yellow and shrivel. Roots and the base of stems turn black and rot.	Burn affected plants and water the soil with Cheshunt Compound to avoid spreading the disease	Rotate crops
Flowers (none)	Flowers not produced.	Can be caused by disease but most likely is caused by too much nitrogen in the soil	Always use a fertiliser with phosphates and potash
Fusarium Wilt	Stunted growth. Yellowing or rolled leaves. Little crop.	Burn affected plants.	Grow wilt resistant varieties
Grey Mould (Botrytis)	Grey velvety mould on pods.	Burn affected pods and spray remaining crop.	Spray at flowering time if this is a known problem
Halo Blight	Small brown spots surrounded by a yellow "halo" on the leaves. Stunted plants.	Lift and destroy diseased plants	Never soak seed and rotate crops
Leaf and Pod Spot	Brown sunken spots on pods. Discoloured peas.	Destroy affect plants and spray remaining plants	Rotate crops
Marsh Spot	Brown-lined cavity in the centre of peas caused by shortage of manganese.	None	Add compost prior to sowing and apply a sequestered compound
Mice	Will eat seeds and seedlings.	None	Dip seed in paraffin or alum, place spiny branches along the rows or use a normal mouse trap.
Pea Aphid	Stunted growth and damaged flowers.	Spray at the first sign of attack and repeat if necessary	None
Pea and Bean Weevil	U-shaped notches at the edges of leaves. Seedlings can be killed but older plants tend to recover.	Spray at the first sign of attack	Hoe around plants during April and May to prevent further attack
Pea Thrips	Silvery patches on leaves and pods. Pods distorted.	Spray at the first sign of attack	Remove infected plants and dig over the soil before replanting
Pea Moth	Pea moth maggots burrow through pods into seeds.	None	Spray just as the flowers appear
Pods (none)	No pods develop	The loss of flowers without producing pods is often caused by birds or bees but can also be caused by roots drying out	Keep roots moist and mulch
Powdery Mildew	White powdery patches on both sides of leaves. Pods are covered in white patches.	Spray at the first sign of disease and repeat every fortnight if necessary	Burn affected plants after picking
Seed Beetle	Small round holes appear which house the seed beetle grub. Seeds don't germinate or produce bad seedlings.	None	Buy good quality seeds and don't plant any which show signs of holes

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How to Grow Parsnips

Linda — Thu, 24 Nov 2011 14:37:45 +0000

Parsnip Click here for Parsnip Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Parsnips require very little attention and the roots can be left in the ground all winter and dug up as required but if you store some in November you will still have some when the soil is too frozen to dif them up. Do not attempt to replant thinnings as they won't take well. Keep an eye on weeds and water well in dry weather. Harvest as the leaves begin to die down in autumn. They will taste better if left until after the first frost.
Mid February to end April	n/a	For long specimens ensure the soil is well prepared and stone-free. Any reasonable soil will do in a sunny or light-shaded site. Dig well in Autumn but don't add manure or compost.	Sow three seeds together and thin out to one plant 6ins apart and 12ins between the rows.	Mid October to mid March	Can be kept in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to two weeks. To freeze: trim, peel and wash, cut into cubes, blanch for 5 mins and freeze.	Top and tail and remove any damaged areas. Scrub (don't peel) and remove the hard core in older roots. Parboil for 2mins and roast. Alternatively they can be boiled and mashed.

Parsnip Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Black Rot	Blackened Carrot Roots seen on stored carrots	Burn diseased roots	Store properly and do not use the same land for carrots next year
Clayburn	Not serious but will produce blackened roots	None	Dig out any clay in the soil before sowing
Fanging	Forked roots	None	Don't add manure or compost prior to sowing. Don't make beds too firm
Parsnip Canker	Blackened Parsnip roots which crack leaving the root to rot	None	Lime the soil and don't sow too early.
Small Roots	Small parsnips	None	Dig soil deeply and break up any clay by adding well-rotted manure or compost
Sclerotinia Rot	Mouldy Roots found on stored parsnips	None	Ensure roots are firm and disease free before storing
Splitting	Split roots caused by heavy rain. These parsnips will not store successfully	None but can still be eaten	Water regularly in dry weather and apply a mulch to conserve moisture
Swift Moth	Hollowed-out roots caused by caterpillars	None	Use Chlorophos to control
Violet Root Rot	Mouldy roots and yellowing leaves	None	Rotate crops

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Making Apple Chutney

Linda — Sat, 10 Sep 2011 14:40:38 +0000

About 10 years ago my brother, Ken, bought me a Cox’s Orange Pippin apple tree, grafted to keep it small enough for my small garden.

Over the years it has basically looked after itself with little or no pruning, but each year it produces a number of apples which I usually forget about and end up as food for the birds.

This year I decided to harvest the apples whilst they were still on the tree and in good condition; this resulted in 13lbs of lovely, good sized apples.

Great, lots of apples! But what would I do with them all?

I’ve made chutneys and marmalades (take a look at my Calamondin Marmalade recipe) in the passed so a quick google search confirmed that I could indeed make an Apple Chutney and there were lots of recipes to choose from.

The recipe I settled on was Apple and Raisin Chutney from the BBC Food Website.

Here is the recipe:

Ingredients

1.8kg/4lb apples, peeled, cored and chopped
4 medium onions, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 lemon, juice only
1 tbsp mustard seeds
900ml/1½ pint vinegar (cider or malt)
450g/1lb raisins
1 tbsp ground ginger
2 tsp salt
900g/2lb soft brown sugar

Preparation method

Bring the apples, onions, garlic, lemon juice, mustard seed and 590ml/1 pint of vinegar to the boil.
Simmer for 1 hour.
Add the raisins, ginger, salt, sugar and the rest of the vinegar.
Simmer until thick.
Pour into clean, hot jam jars and cover as usual. Store for 6-8 weeks to allow the flavours to develop.

The recipe calls for 4lbs of apples so I had to multiply the volumes up to use my 13lbs so it was at this point I realised just how much chutney 13lbs of apples would make so I decided to use just half of them and make puree with the remainder which I can use in other recipes.

Everything was going well until I had to simmer it until it thickened. An hour later it still hadn’t thickened so I turned up the heat; bad move, it had stuck to the base of my favourite pan. I decanted the mixture into two smaller pans to finish it off and spent a good half an hour trying to get the burnt on mixture off the pan. Mr Muscle Oven cleaner worked brilliant in the end and my pan is as good as new.

The mixture turned out OK in the end with no burnt taste, so it’s now been potted up and will be kept for the required couple of months to let the tastes develop; ideal timing for Christmas.

Take a look at an article I did last year on how to Harvest and Preserve your Garden Produce with some great products from Lakeland and Harrod Horticulture.

I have got most of the equipment needed to produce jams, marmalades and chutneys but how I struggled this time was in preparing the apples.

For some time now I’ve been having problems with my right thumb and peeling potatoes and now apples really hurts and takes ages because I keep having to stop.

Having recently watched Steven Fry’s 100 Greatest Gadgets I noticed that number 9 was an apple peeler. At the time I didn’t think much of it but now having painfully peeled and cored 13lbs of apples I will be ordering one of these wonderful gadgets from Lakeland – click for more information about Apple Master.

How to Grow Tomatoes

Linda — Mon, 05 Sep 2011 13:44:04 +0000

Greenhouse Tomatoes Click here for Outdoor Tomatoes Click here for Tomato Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Tomato plants grown in a greenhouse will produce fruits from the end of June until October. However, they require constant care and daily watering. Sow two seeds in a 3ins peat pot and remove the weaker one once they form a pair of true leaves. Plant into grow bags or pots when 6-8ins high and the first flowers begin to open. Support the main stem and remove side shoots. Feed with tomato food every time you water. Ensure adequate ventilation and shade during very hot weather. Harvest the fruits when they are ripe and well coloured.
In a heated greenhouse: late December to mid January. In a cold greenhouse: Late February to mid March.	In a heated greenhouse: late February to mid March. In a cold greenhouse: Late April to mid May.	If grown in the borders of a greenhouse prepare the soil in winter and add a small amount of compost/manure. Grow Bags can be used but must be kept well watered. If using pots, fill with soil less potting compost.	Plant 18ins apart	Late May to mid October	Will keep fresh in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to one week. If freezing: skin and core then simmer for 5mins. Sieve, cool and pack in a rigid container before freezing.	Most tomatoes are eaten raw but they can be grilled, stuffed or roasted

Outdoor Tomatoes
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Tomatoes grown outdoors require some protection. Ensure you buy a variety recommended for growing outdoors. Prepare the ground well and remove the growing point of cordon varieties. Sow two seeds in a 3ins peat pot and remove the weaker one once they form a pair of true leaves or buy seedlings of 8ins tall. Plant into grow bags or the ground when 6-8ins high and the first flowers begin to open. Support the main stem and remove side shoots. Feed with tomato food every time you water. Harvest the fruits when they are ripe and well coloured.
Late March to mid April	Mid May under glass to early June	Prepare the ground well and add compost and a general fertiliser. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot. Can be grown in posts or grow bags.	Plant 18ins apart with 30ins between rows	Mid July to early October	Will keep fresh in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to one week. If freezing: skin and core then simmer for 5mins. Sieve, cool and pack in a rigid container before freezing.	Most tomatoes are eaten raw but they can be grilled, stuffed or roasted

Tomato Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Blossom End Rot	Leathery dark-coloured patch at bottom of fruit	None	Don't allow soil or compost to dry out
Blossom Drop	Flowers wither and break off	None	Water regularly and mist the flowers in the morning
Blotchy Ripening	Parts of the fruit fail to ripen	None	Control the heat in greenhouses and feed and water regularly
Buckeye Rot	Brown concentric rings around a grey spot on unripe fruit	None	Tie up lower trusses to avoid splashing. Apply a mulch.
Dry Set	Fruitlets stop growing	None	Mist plants twice a day with water
Eelworm	Stunted growth. Discoloured and wilted leaves. Tiny white cysts on roots.	None	Don't grow tomatoes or potatoes in infested soil for at least six years.
Foot Rot	Stem bases are brown. Tends to affect seedlings.	None	Use sterilised soil or compost to raise seedlings. Don't over water.
Greenback	The area around the stalk remains green and hard	None	Provide shade to greenhouses to control the heat. Feed regularly.
Ghost Spot	Grey mould spores fall on fruit leaving 'water spots'	None	Provide good ventilation. Control Grey Mould and do not splash fruit when watering
Greenhouse Whitefly	Tiny moths on underside of leaves. Leaves are pale and curled. Sticky fruit with black mould.	Spray at first sign of attack	None
Grey Mould	Grey mould appears on damaged stems and can spread	Cut out diseased area	Ensure adequate ventilation, avoid over crowding and remove decaying leaves and fruit.
Hormone Damage	Fern-like and twisted leaves. Twisted stems and stalks.	None	Ensure lawn weed killer does not come in contact with plants
Hollow Fruit	Hollow fruit	None	Avoid too much heat or cold. Water regularly. Ensure adequate potash in the soil.
Leaf Roll	Rolled leaves is not a bad sign in young leaves as long as they are dark green. In older leaves it may be due to side variations in day and night temperatures. Provided no pests are present then no action is required.
Magnesium Deficiency	Yellowing between veins of leaves. Starts on lower leaves and moves up.	Use a foliar spray containing magnesium	None
Potato Blight	Bark brown blotches on leaves. Brown, shrunken areas on fruit. May develop during storage.	None	Tomatoes grown under glass are not always infected but to prevent a likely attack or for outdoor tomatoes use a protective spray of mancozeb (Dithane) or copper (Murphy Traditional Copper or Vitax Bordeaux Mixture). Try to apply these before the symptoms are seen but if this isn't possible use as soon as possible. They will not totally prevent infection, but often slow it sufficiently to save the crop.
Root Rot	Roots are brown and corky. Plants wilt in hot weather.	Mulch to encourage new roots	Use new soil or fresh compost
Sun Scald	Pale brown, papery-skinned depression on side of fruit facing greenhouse glass	None	Paint glass and damp down well. Do not mist plants at mid-day.
Split Fruit	Fruits split	None	Keep roots moist
Stem Rot	Stem bases are brown. Tends to affect mature plants.	None	Sterilise greenhouse and equipment
Tomato Leaf Mould	Purple brown mould patches on underside of leaves, yellow patches on upper side. Lower leaves attacked first.	Remove some of the lower leaves and spray at first sign of attack.	Ventilate greenhouse at night
Tomato Moth	Large, green or brown caterpillars tunnel into fruit and stems.	None	Spray when small caterpillars holes appear in leaves
Virus	Mottled and curled leaves. Dark vertical streaks on the stems. Stunted growth. Mottled and bronzed fruits.	None	Buy virus-free plants. Spray to control greenfly
Verticillium Wilt	Leaves wilt in hot weather. Lower leaves turn yellow. Brown streaks through the stem tissue	Mulch around stem to encourage new roots.	Don't grow tomatoes in infected soil

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How to Grow Potatoes

Linda — Mon, 05 Sep 2011 13:28:32 +0000

There are three types of potatoes; first earlies, second earlies and maincrop.

First earlies provide new potatoes suitable for salads second earlies fill in the gap between the first earlies and the main crop. Main Crop can be used straight from the ground or can be stored for use over Winter.

Potatoes are produced from seed potatoes which should be from certified virus free plants and ideally the size of a hen's egg. Before planting they should be chitted to produce small, strong shoots.

Chitting: Place the seed potatoes in egg boxes or seed trays, eyed end up, and keep in a light, frost-free room for about six weeks to allow the shoots to develop.

Plant as detailed below. When the stems are about 9ins tall pile loose earth up around the stems to leave a couple of inches above the soil. Keep earthing-up, a little at a time, until the stems stop growing. This earthing-up helps to stop the potatoes going green.

Ensure that the crop are kept well watered during dry weather and to avoid problems next year ensure the whole crop is removed from the soil.

Potato Click here for Potato Troubles
There are three varieties of potatoes; first earlies, second earlies and maincrop. First earlies provide new potatoes suitable for salads second earlies fill in the gap between the first earlies and the main crop. Main Crop can be used straight from the ground or can be stored for use over Winter. Potatoes are produced from seed potatoes which should be from certified virus free plants and ideally the size of a hen's egg. Before planting they should be chitted to produce small, strong shoots. Chitting: Place the seed potatoes in egg boxes or seed trays, eyed end up, and keep in a light, frost-free room for about six weeks to allow the shoots to develop. Plant as detailed below. When the stems are about 9ins tall pile loose earth up around the stems to leave a couple of inches above the soil. Keep earthing-up, a little at a time, until the stems stop growing. This earthing-up helps to stop the potatoes going green. Ensure that the crop are kept well watered during dry weather and to avoid problems next year ensure the whole crop is removed from the soil.
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
First Earlies e.g. Foremost, Rocket, Home Guard, Maris Bard
n/a	Late March	Can be grown in any soil preferably in a sunny spot. Dig in the Autumn and add manure or compost. Never add lime. Don't grow on land where potatoes have been grown within past two seasons.	Plant each seed potato 12ins apart in rows 24ins apart.	Lift once flowers are fully open; usually June or July.	Should not be stored, lift when small and treat as new potatoes.	New potatoes should be washed, not peeled, and boiled for 12 mins.
Second Earlies e.g. Charlotte, Anya, Maris Peer, Wilja
n/a	Early-mid April	Can be grown in any soil preferably in a sunny spot. Dig in the Autumn and add manure or compost. Never add lime. Don't grow on land where potatoes have been grown within past two seasons.	Plant each seed potato 12ins apart in rows 24ins apart.	Lift once flowers are fully open; usually July or August	Should not be stored, lift when small and treat as new potatoes.	New potatoes should be washed, not peeled, and boiled for 12 mins.
Maincrop e.g. Maris Piper, King Edward, Desiree, Pink Fir Apple
n/a	Mid-late April	Can be grown in any soil preferably in a sunny spot. Dig in the Autumn and add manure or compost. Never add lime. Don't grow on land where potatoes have been grown within past two seasons.	Plant each seed potato 15ins apart in rows 30ins apart.	Wait until the stems have withered. Cut stems to the ground, wait 10 days and lift. Usually ready August to eat immediately or leave until September or early October before storing.	Leave to dry out then place in a wooden box and leave in a frost-free shed until needed. They should last until Spring.	Scrubbed or scraped, cut into chunks and cooked for 15-20 mins. Parboil for 5 mins before roasting for 45 mins.

Potato Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Aphid	Plant infested with greenfly.	Spray at first sign of attack	None
Blackleg	Blackened stems at and below ground level. Leaves turn yellow and wilt.	None	Do not plant soft or rotten seed tubers and don't cut tubers
Capsid Bug	Small brown spots in leaves, later turn into holes	Spray if attack is bad, will not affect yield	None
Common Scab	Ragged-edged scurfy patches. Only on the skin, the flesh is not affected.	None	Buy healthy seed tubers. Do not Lime.
Dry Rot	Shrunken area with white pustules occur during storage.	None	Rotate crops. Ensure tubers are sound before storing and handle carefully.
Frost	Black stems or yellow patches on leaves	None	Cover if frost is expected
Gapping	Seed potatoes do not develop shoots	None	Buy healthy seed tubers and ensure they are kept in a frost-free location
Gangrene	Dark brown depressions on the surface of the tuber	None	Store only sound tubers and keep air and frost-free
Hollow Heart	Hollow centre of tubers	None	Keep well watered during dry spells
Leaf Roll Virus	Leaves are rolled upwards and become hard and brittle	None	Buy healthy seed tubers. Spray to control the virus-carrying aphids.
Mosaic Virus	Yellow or pale green mottling over the surface of the leaf	None	Buy healthy seed tubers. Spray to control the virus-carrying aphids.
Magnesium Deficiency	Yellowing between the veins of the leaves which turns brown and brittle. Stunted growth.	Apply MultiTonic and spray with Fillip	Feed regularly during the growing season using a fertiliser with magnesium
Potato Blight	Brown patches on the leaves with white mould on the underside of each spot. Can destroy all the foliage. grey patches below the skin.	None	Buy healthy seed tubers. Spray with Dithane in July and repeat every fortnight if the weather is damp. Keep earthed up.
Potato Cyst Eelworm	Weak and stunted plants. Small tubers produced	None	Rotate crops. Don't grow potatoes or tomatoes on infected land for at least six years
Powdery Scab	Round patches with raised margins on the skin.	None	Rotate crops
Rosy Rustic Moth	Hollow stems causing plants to die down early	None	None
Splitting	Deep cracks on surface of tubers	None	Do not store. Keep plants well watered during dry spells.
Slugs	Large holes in the tubers	None	Don't add too much manure and lift tubers as soon as they mature. Keep the area free of rubbish.
Spraing	Curved lines in the flesh	None	Rotate crops
Soft Rot	Soft, evil-smelling flesh	None	Store only sound tubers and keep dry
Spindly Sprouts	Thin shoots	Stand tubers in a light cool place	Buy healthy seed tubers and ensure they are sprouted in a light, frost-free location.
Soft Tubers	Soft and rubbery tubers	None	Water well during drought conditions
Wireworm	Orange, shiny larvae produce tunnels in the flesh of tubers	None	Rake Chlorophos into the soil before planting and lift tubers as soon as they are mature.
Wart Disease	Black warty outgrowths on tubers	None	Only plant immune varieties on infected land

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