Try to rest the lawn as much as possible during winter. If practical keep off when wet or frosty, as the grass plants are not actively growing; they will not repair themselves if damaged until the spring.

Mowing

Only mow the lawn if necessary; this will depend upon weather conditions and temperatures at the time. Do not mow if heavy frosts are expected or if the ground is very wet.

Clear leaves and debris

Use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris. Specialist leaf sweepers and lawn vacuums are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns; although in winter it is better to keep off with heavier machines.

Aeration

Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.

Dealing with worms

Remember worms improve the nutrient content of a soil and are beneficial to the soil structure. Worm casts are best left to dry and then swept or brushed away with a stiff brush.

As leaves fall from the trees use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris.

Service mower

Service or replace your mower if necessary ready for the next growing season. As always make sure that the blades are in good condition and are sharp.

This advice is courtesy of Rolawn Direct

• Looking after your lawn in Autumn - Autumn is an important season for taking care of your lawn. It is important to use the last months of the growing season to strengthen and prepare the lawn for the rigours of winter. The effort put into a lawn in autumn will improve the quality and health of the lawn right through into the ...
• Looking after your lawn in Spring - Spring is a very important season for looking after your lawn. After the rigours of winter it needs careful attention as soon as the days start to lengthen and the grass starts to grow. Giving the lawn the care it needs now will ensure the best possible results throughout the year. Mowing As the grass starts to ...
• Lawn Care Calendar - Find out how to look after your lawn month by monthTweet ...

Autumn is an important season for taking care of your lawn. It is important to use the last months of the growing season to strengthen and prepare the lawn for the rigours of winter. The effort put into a lawn in autumn will improve the quality and health of the lawn right through into the following Spring and beyond.

Mowing

As the days grow shorter and the temperatures begin to fall the rate at which the grass grows will slow, meaning that the lawn will need mowing less frequently. It is also a good idea to raise the height of cut as winter approaches. As always maintain your mower in good condition and keep the blades sharp.

Apply an Autumn Lawn Food

This gives the lawn the essential nutrients it needs to strengthen itself for winter. As autumn progresses damp still conditions can lead to diseases such as fusarium patch. Applying Rolawn GroRight Autumn Lawn Food in early autumn will help combat these by strengthening the grass plants as well as giving your lawn an attractive green colour. You can buy Rolawn Lawn Food online now.

Overseeding

Depending upon the wear and tear which your lawn has received over the previous months you may want to overseed the lawn in early autumn. Rolawn recommends a mix of our Medallion lawn seed with our Lawn Topdressing brushed into the surface of the lawn. The seed will germinate ahead of winter and give a thicker, denser lawn the following season.

Topdressing

If your lawn has become uneven then topdressing will even out any low areas. A rate of 1 - 3 kg per square metre will be sufficient when brushed into the lawn surface especially in lower areas. It is a good idea to add our Medallion Lawn seed to a topdressing to help fill in any thin areas It is always best to carry out topdressing when the lawn is dry. Topdressing also helps break down thatch and aids drainage. You can buy our quality Medallion lawn seed online now.

Aeration

Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.

Dealing with worms

Remember worms improve the nutrient content of a soil and are beneficial to the soil structure. Worm casts are best left to dry and then swept or brushed away with a stiff brush. Clear the lawn of leaves and debris As leaves start to fall from the trees use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris. Specialist leaf sweepers and lawn vacuums are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns.

Scarification

Scarification reduces the build up of dead grass matter, roots and moss which can cause increased stress to the grass plants. Scarification can be done using a spring-tine rake by vigorously pulling the rake through the grass sward. Electric scarifiers are also available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores.

Broadleaf weed treatment

Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.

Dealing with moss

If moss is a problem on your lawn you will need to scarify it out. You may also consider applying moss-killer product before scarifying. This will help to kill and remove more of the moss, allow the moss to turn brown/black before scarifying. After this it may be appropriate to overseed using Medallion lawn seed if taking the moss out leaves the lawn thin in some areas.

This advice come courtesy of Rolawn Direct

• Looking after your lawn in Spring - Spring is a very important season for looking after your lawn. After the rigours of winter it needs careful attention as soon as the days start to lengthen and the grass starts to grow. Giving the lawn the care it needs now will ensure the best possible results throughout the year. Mowing As the grass starts to ...
• Looking after your lawn in Winter - Try to rest the lawn as much as possible during winter. If practical keep off when wet or frosty, as the grass plants are not actively growing; they will not repair themselves if damaged until the spring. Mowing Only mow the lawn if necessary; this will depend upon weather conditions and temperatures at the time. Do not ...
• Lawn Care Calendar - Find out how to look after your lawn month by monthTweet ...

Chafer grubs are the larvae of the chafer beetle.

They can cause problems on any grassed area including lawns by feeding on the roots of grass plants.

The adults range from 9 to 39 mm in length and have different coloured heads and wings cases. The adults emerge between the end of May and July depending on the weather conditions in spring. They may feed on shrubs and trees before laying the eggs into grassed areas.

Larvae hatch about 2 weeks later and begin to feed on grass roots until late September when they move deeper into the soil where they pass the winter. The larvae have white bodies curved in letter C shape, light brown heads, with 3 pairs of legs.When the larvae are small they do not cause much damage to grass unless they are in very high numbers. As they grow bigger, they cause more damage.

Symptoms may appear as straw-coloured weak areas of grass, where the roots have been damaged. In most cases the larvae are discovered when birds or mammals, such as badgers or foxes, begin to rip up areas of the turf looking for the grubs. They are a protein filled delicacy to birds and mammals, which can destroy large areas when looking for them.

It is very difficult to prevent chafer larvae being laid into the lawn. Females prefer moist conditions and so the lawn should not be watered if adults are seen. However, where larvae are present the lawn should be kept well watered to try and counteract the grass from dying through drought due to a weaker root system. In most cases all that can be done is to employ bird and mammal deterrents and tidy up any damage caused.

The larvae can be controlled by removing them by hand or applying a biological nematode, such as Rolawn Chafer Grub Killer, which can be applied from late July until October. Rolawn Chafer Grub killer is specific to the pest concerned therefore safe for the user, children, pets, wildlife and the environment. Click here for further information and to order online from Rolawn Direct.

• Lawn Problems - Even after following a strict maintenance programme you may find your lawn occasionally requires additional work or succumbs to pests or diseases.Tweet ...
• The Top Ten Garden Pests - According to the RHS the following are the top ten garden pests in the UK.Tweet ...
• Dealing with moss in your lawn - If moss is a problem on your lawn you will need to scarify it out. You may also consider applying lawn sand or a weed and moss-killer product before scarifying. This will help to kill and remove more of the moss. Allow the moss to turn brown/black before scarifyingTweet ...

Mowing

As temperatures hot up and we move into summer the growth of your lawn may actually start to slow down, mow as and when necessary never taking more than one third of the length of the plant off in any one cut. As always a sharp mower is essential. If temperatures become very hot your lawn will become stressed and it may be necessary to cut back on the frequency of mowing.

Feeding

It will not be necessary to feed your lawn during summer, however a feed with a spring lawn food in late spring will give it everything it needs to see it through the summer.

Watering

Summer is the time when drought can occur and a lawn can turn brown and straw coloured. Before addressing this problem the first thing to say is that well-maintained lawns will invariably recover once the rains return. Good maintenance at other times of the year, aeration and appropriate feeding will help rooting and the lawn's ability to withstand and recover from periods of drought. If possible, avoidance is better than cure and the only way to prevent drought is to water the lawn. If you can water it is best to do this at the first signs of drought, when the grass is still green but starting to show signs of stress (little growth and a dulling of the normal bright green coloration). If you can water try to do this evenly. Also irrigate at times when the water is more likely to soak in. The general rule here is early morning or in the evening, which probably suits most homeowners. Remember to follow any local regulations when using water in summer. If your lawn does suffer from drought then mow as little as possible, the lawn won't be growing rapidly and it will stress the lawn unnecessarily.

Broadleaf Weed Treatment

Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.

Enjoy your Lawn

Looking after and maintaining a beautiful lawn is a rewarding experience and past time. The results speak for themselves and are there for all to see. A grass surface is also one of the safest surfaces for you and your family to enjoy.

There are other benefits to having a beautiful lawn for example it is believed that standing barefoot on grass is a multi-sensory experience. It triggers within us deeply rooted associations with the smell and sound of nature and the vision of dense greenery.

Dealing with Lawn Pests

The most common lawn pests, Chafer Grubs and Leatherjackets, can cause significant damage to lawns. If you notice patches of poorly growing, yellowing grass check for signs of grubs feeding on the grass roots. These pests can be easily and safely controlled by applying a suitable nematode based product. Rolawn Chafer Grub Killer should be applied from mid-July through to late October. The optimum time of year to apply Rolawn Leatherjacket Killer is from August through to late October.

This advice comes courtesy of Rolawn Direct

• What can I do to look after my lawn during dry periods? - The UK doesn’t often have long periods of hot weather but when it does, and when hose pipe bans are iminent, our lawns can soon begin looking dry or even dead.Tweet ...
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• 4 Easy Steps to a Great Lawn - Not everyone has the time to spend on a full year-round lawn maintenance routine, if this applies to you then here are a few easy jobs you can carry out which will make a difference to your lawn in a short space of time.Tweet ...

Rolawn TV - Helping you create a beautiful garden with our practical ‘How to’ videos.

Rolawn Direct are one of the leading suppliers of lawn turf and lawn related products in the UK with their website offering lots of useful advice.

Now they also have a number of informative videos to help you make the most of your lawn.

If you are planning a new lawn then take a look at the video's below to help you produce the best lawn possible.

• A New Lawn from Seed - Growing grass from seed costs a lot less than using turf but you can only really sow a lawn during April-May or September-early October. It takes 4-6 months before you have a usable lawn so it is usually best to sow during the Autumn.Tweet ...
• Looking after your lawn in Summer - Mowing As temperatures hot up and we move into summer the growth of your lawn may actually start to slow down, mow as and when necessary never taking more than one third of the length of the plant off in any one cut. As always a sharp mower is essential. If temperatures become very hot your ...
• Looking after your lawn in Winter - Try to rest the lawn as much as possible during winter. If practical keep off when wet or frosty, as the grass plants are not actively growing; they will not repair themselves if damaged until the spring. Mowing Only mow the lawn if necessary; this will depend upon weather conditions and temperatures at the time. Do not ...

Spring is a very important season for looking after your lawn. After the rigours of winter it needs careful attention as soon as the days start to lengthen and the grass starts to grow. Giving the lawn the care it needs now will ensure the best possible results throughout the year.

Mowing
As the grass starts to grow you will need to start to mow your lawn. It is very important in early spring that you set the mowing height quite high taking no more that one quarter of the length of the plant off at a time otherwise the lawn will become stressed. A little and often approach is better in spring. As the grass grows faster as we move further into spring increase the mowing frequency and gradually reduce the height of cut to give the desired finish.

Apply a Spring Lawn Food
This gives the lawn the essential nutrients it needs over the spring period. Rolawn recommends applying a spring lawn food in early spring and then again six weeks later. The grass plants are growing rapidly at this time and like any living thing need the correct nutrients in the correct quantities in order to grow strong and healthy. Healthy plants mean a thicker denser sward and Rolawn Groright Spring Lawn Food will also give an attractive green colour to your lawn. Click here to buy quality spring lawn food online now.

Overseeding
Depending upon the wear and tear that the lawn has received over the previous months you may want to overseed the lawn in early Spring. Rolawn recommends a mix of our Medallion Lawn Seed with our Lawn Topdressing brushed into the surface of the lawn. The seed will germinate and fill in any sparse or thinner areas. Using Medallion Lawn Seed will add the highest rated cultivars to any lawn giving a thicker, denser sward.

Topdressing
If your lawn has become uneven then topdressing will even out any low areas. A rate of 1 - 3 kg per square metre will be sufficient when brushed into the lawn surface especially in lower areas. It is a good idea to add our Medallion Lawn seed to a topdressing to help fill in any thin areas. It is always best to carry out topdressing when the lawn is dry. Topdressing also helps break down thatch and aids drainage. Click here to buy topdressing online now.

Aeration
Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.

Scarification
Scarification reduces the build up of dead grass matter, roots and moss which can cause increased stress to the grass plants. Scarification can be done using a spring-tine rake by vigorously pulling the rake through the grass sward. Electric scarifiers are also available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores.

Broadleaf weed treatment.
Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.

Dealing with moss.
If moss is a problem on your lawn you will need to scarify it out. You may also consider applying moss-killer product before scarifying. This will help to kill and remove more of the moss, allow the moss to turn brown/black before scarifying. After this it may be appropriate to overseed using Medallion lawn seed if taking the moss out leaves the lawn thin in some areas.

Treatment of weed grasses
Undesirable weed grasses can appear in a lawn. They will be obvious as they will appear to be different to the rest of the grass sward. Grasses such as Poa Annua are endemic in the northern hemisphere; if you notice seed heads forming from pale 'stalky' plants then these are likely to be Poa Annua. If required these can be removed by cutting the plant out and removing the roots. Fill in the area with a mix of Rolawn Lawn Top Dressing and Medallion lawn seed as any bare patches are likely to encourage the growth of more Poa plants as it is very common in the UK and the seeds will invade any bare ground.

The key to preventing weed grasses is a good maintenance regime. A vigorous, dense and healthy growing lawn will out compete many of the weed grasses. This can be achieved with regular feeding with a quality lawn food, regular mowing with a sharp mower and overseeding any thinner patches if necessary. During spring if Poa Annua seed heads are forming it can also help to use a mower which collects the clippings and therefore removes some of the seed heads.

This advice comes courtesy of Rolawn Direct

• Looking after your lawn in Autumn - Autumn is an important season for taking care of your lawn. It is important to use the last months of the growing season to strengthen and prepare the lawn for the rigours of winter. The effort put into a lawn in autumn will improve the quality and health of the lawn right through into the ...
• Looking after your lawn in Summer - Mowing As temperatures hot up and we move into summer the growth of your lawn may actually start to slow down, mow as and when necessary never taking more than one third of the length of the plant off in any one cut. As always a sharp mower is essential. If temperatures become very hot your ...
• Lawn Care Calendar - Find out how to look after your lawn month by monthTweet ...

Creating a colourful wildflower area in your garden is extremely easy and your garden will soon become a natural haven for beneficial insects as well as various species of butterflies.

Wildflower Lawn

A wildflower lawn is just a patch of grass that isn't cut as short as usual and where you encourage low-growing wild flowers, such as primroses, violets and cowslips.

Some people also like to encourage some lawn weeds.

A wildflower meadow is wonderful in summer and attracts butterflies and bees. You can either let the wild flowers come up naturally, and weed out the ones you don't want, or you can plant the wild flowers of your choice into the turf in spring, they will self-seed once they are established.

A wildflower lawn doesn't need feeding but it will need cutting a couple of times a year in early spring and autumn.

Clover Lawn

White clover (Trifoliurn repens) makes a very good 'lawn'. Sow it in the same way as a normal grass lawn, using clover seeds that you can buy from specialist seed firms.

Clover stays green in dry weather and it grows to only about 5-8cm (2-3in), so it doesn't need regular mowing. Clover is a mass of flower in summer and very attractive to bees.

Flower Lawn

The classic flower lawn is chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile 'Treneague'). You can also grow a lawn of creeping thymes; a mixture of mat­forming alpines; or one of the flowering chamomiles, such Chamaemelum nobile `Flore Pleno'.

Flowering lawns don't need mowing; just a clip over after flowering, but they have to be weeded by hand so you may not want a large area. The types of plants used in flowering lawns need a sunny spot with excellent drainage so dig plenty of grit or gravel into the area before planting.

Buy your own wildflower seed collection from Thompson & Morgan; each collection comprises of one packet each of Common Primrose, Wild Cowslip, Wild Flanders Poppy and Sweet Rocket Alba. Or see a wide range of wildflower seeds from Suttons.

• A New Lawn from Seed - Growing grass from seed costs a lot less than using turf but you can only really sow a lawn during April-May or September-early October. It takes 4-6 months before you have a usable lawn so it is usually best to sow during the Autumn.Tweet ...
• Rolawn TV – Practical ‘How to’ Videos - Rolawn TV - Helping you create a beautiful garden with our practical ‘How to’ videos. Rolawn Direct are one of the leading suppliers of lawn turf and lawn related products in the UK with their website offering lots of useful advice. Now they also have a number of informative videos to help you make the most of your ...

Thatch

Thatch is a build-up of dead bits of grass on the surface of the soil and is quite natural in lawns that are getting old. The thatch prevents rain from soaking down to the grass roots and keeps moisture at the soil surface, encouraging moss. The thatch will build up faster if you don't use a grass box on your mower.

Rake it out regularly during Autumn as part of a regular lawn-care programme.

Compaction

Compaction also occurs on older lawns and is caused by standing garden furniture on it, or running heavy barrows over it or even just standing on it during wet weather. All this activity squashes the lawn down and plant roots find it harder to push through the hard ground.

Spiking the soil with a fork alleviates compaction and, by making airways, helps the grass grow. Again it's a job that's best done in autumn.

On clay soil follow the spiking by brushing gritty sand into the vertical drainage channels (about a bucketful per square metre), this makes it firmer to walk on, yet better drained in wet conditions.

Weeds

The rosette-forming, or broad-leaved, weeds, such as daisies, plantains and dandelions are easy to eradicate with selective lawn weed killers. You can either spot-treat individual weeds with a ready-to-use product or you can sprinkle a combined weed-and-feed treatment over the whole lawn.

For small-leaved weeds you'll need a liquid weed killer that is specially designed for this type of weed. Dilute it and water it on with a watering can.

Dead weeds leave bald patches in the lawn that are quickly colonized by weed seeds and moss, so it is a good idea to feed at the same time as weeding; if the grass is growing well, there will be no room for weeds.

Use lawn weed killers in late spring when weeds are growing fast, but before they start flowering. By the time they flower, weeds will have become too tough to respond well to treatment.

Apply liquid lawn weed killer on a dry day, so that it has at least 12 to 24 hours to be taken in through the leaves. If it's washed away too soon, it won't have a chance to work. If you use a granular weed-and-feed treatment turn on the sprinkler, if it hasn't rained after 48 hours, to make sure that the treatment is effective.

Moss

Moss will continue to return if your lawn is in a damp, shady place so try to let in more light and improve the drainage.

The cheapest, simplest method of controlling moss is to rake it out, it is hard work so you may want to invest in a powered lawnraker or hire one.

An easier solution is to buy liquid lawn moss killer, or products that combine moss killer with lawn feed. You need to feed the lawn, so that it thickens up and fills gaps where moss has been, to stop weeds coming in. Apply in spring.

Lawn sand is an effective preparation that acts as a fertilizer, weed killer and moss killer, but it can scorch the lawn if applied too heavily. Buy it ready-made or make it up yourself from 4 parts (by weight) sulphate of ammonia: 1 part sulphate of iron: and 20 parts fine silver sand. Apply, at the rate of 115g per 1sq.m (4oz per sq. yd), when dry during spring and early summer, but make sure the soil is moist.

Once the moss turns black it is dead and can be raked out.

Bald Patches

Some bald patches on the lawn are due to constant use by regular heavy foot traffic, if this is the case you would be better off putting in a proper path. Some patches may be because the grass isn't growing very well, and spiking and feeding may be all it needs. Other patches may simply be 'scalped' bumps; that happens when the mower skims off the top of higher areas of lawn. Levelling the lawn will correct this. If there are bald patches where large rosette weeds have been removed, or because the lawn in poor condition, the quickest way to deal with them is to reseed.

Broken Edges

Broken lawn edges look untidy, make mowing difficult and edging almost impossible. Take a sharp spade and cut out a square of turf that has the broken edge along one side. Turn it around and fit it back into the gap, so that the straight edge is around the outside of the lawn and the broken piece is on the inside. This leaves a hole in the lawn. Fill the hole with topsoil and firm it down then reseed it as if it were a bald patch.

Peaks and Hollows

To flatten peaks strip the turf off the peak, remove some of the soil beneath and level the spot before putting the turf back. Hollows are treated in the same way, but in reverse. Remove the turf, add topsoil until the hollow is level and put the grass back.

Earthworms

Worms are actually beneficial in the garden - they make hundreds of tiny drainage channels in the soil. They also drag organic matter, such as dead leaves, into the ground, helping with soil enrichment. However, some species of worm leave worm casts on the lawn's surface (mainly in spring and autumn). When the weather is dry sweep the worm casts off the lawn with a stiff broom.

Ants

Ants like nesting in dry soil in lawns in summer and they will defend their nests, often giving you nasty nips. Ants usually target lawns which are thin and have lots of bare soil, so keeping a good lawn will deter them. Soak new nesting sites thoroughly with water to drive ants away, if this doesn’t work don’t worry; the whole colony will fly away in late Summer.

Moles

Moles burrow beneath lawns in search of earthworms. There are lots of ways you can try to get rid of moles but none of them are 100% successful and even if you do get rid of one it is highly likely that another will move into it’s place soon afterwards. As a final resort you can call in a mole catcher. If you accept the moles just remember to brush the molehill back into the hole to avoid bare batches and a sunken lawn.

Leatherjackets

Leatherjackets are the larvae of the crane fly (daddy-long-legs) and they eat grass roots. The first thing you know about it is lots of little yellow patches, or flocks of starlings probing for grubs and there isn’t an awful lot you can do about it except repair the pecked-up surface after the birds have finished.

Chafer grubs

Chafer grubs are the larvae of the chafer beetle. They can cause problems on any grassed area including lawns by feeding on the roots of grass plants.

Symptoms may appear as straw-coloured weak areas of grass, where the roots have been damaged. In most cases the larvae are discovered when birds or mammals, such as badgers or foxes, begin to rip up areas of the turf looking for the grubs. They are a protein filled delicacy to birds and mammals, which can destroy large areas when looking for them.

Take a look at our full article: Now is an ideal time to prevent damage caused by Chafer Grubs

• Dealing with moss in your lawn - If moss is a problem on your lawn you will need to scarify it out. You may also consider applying lawn sand or a weed and moss-killer product before scarifying. This will help to kill and remove more of the moss. Allow the moss to turn brown/black before scarifyingTweet ...
• Now is an ideal time to prevent damage caused by Chafer Grubs - Chafer grubs are the larvae of the chafer beetle. They can cause problems on any grassed area including lawns by feeding on the roots of grass plants. The adults range from 9 to 39 mm in length and have different coloured heads and wings cases. The adults emerge between the end of May and July ...
• Mushrooms in the Lawn - The mushrooms you find in your lawn are actually helping to decay dead and rotting matter beneath the surface of the lawn with most of the activity taking place under the turf.Tweet ...

Although you have to wait longer for a lawn from seed, it's a lot less work than laying turf.

Equipment Required

• A digging spade
• A garden fork
• A garden rake
• Special pre-seeding lawn fertilizer
• Grass seed

The Process

• Dig over or fork the ground the soil removing stones and roots as you go
• Rake the soil gently until level
• Sprinkle on fertilizer at the recommended rate and rake it in
• Tread over the whole area, sinking your weight well down into your heels to consolidate the soft patches
• Rake again to cover the footprints
• Divide the total amount of grass seed in half. Sprinkle one lot in one direction, then repeat, spreading in the opposite direction. The aim is to make sure the seed is spread very thinly and evenly all over the surface of the soil, with no bare patches
• Rake over the area again very lightly expect to see about half of it still showing when you've finished
• Most grass seed is treated with bird repellent but if you have a problem with birds, lay twiggy pea-sticks over the ground
• After a couple of weeks you should start to see a green stubble appear
• Stay off the lawn while it’s establishing and keep well watered
• As the lawn starts to thicken up cut the grass very gently with a mower set high enough to take only the tips off the grass blades which helps it to root quicker
• Give your lawn it’s first proper cut on a dry day; adjust the mower so that the blades are at their highest setting, and leave the grass box on to catch the clippings
• Keep off the grass until it has been cut several times and starts to look like a proper lawn
• Keep the blades set high for the first few cuts, then lower them gradually, but don't cut any shorter than 3cm to start with.

The lawn should be treated carefully and should not be subjected to heavy traffic for about twelve months. Water regularly and keep an eye out for weeds and diseases.

Find out how to produce a lawn from turf or click here to read other Lawn Care Articles.

• Rolawn TV – Practical ‘How to’ Videos - Rolawn TV - Helping you create a beautiful garden with our practical ‘How to’ videos. Rolawn Direct are one of the leading suppliers of lawn turf and lawn related products in the UK with their website offering lots of useful advice. Now they also have a number of informative videos to help you make the most of your ...
• Alternative Lawns - A lush, well manicured, green lawn is most people’s idea of the perfect lawn but if you are looking for something a little easier to maintain or just fancy something a bit different then why not sow a wildflower or chamomile lawn? Creating a colourful wildflower area in your garden is extremely easy and your ...
• A New Lawn from Turf - Turf is pre-grown grass, which is cut from the ground ready for you to use as an instant lawn. There are two types of turf available, Cultivated and Meadow. Cultivated turf if the most expensive but it gives a good quality lawn. Meadow turf is cheaper but it may have weeds or bare patches ...

There are two types of turf available, Cultivated and Meadow. Cultivated turf if the most expensive but it gives a good quality lawn. Meadow turf is cheaper but it may have weeds or bare patches so will require more initial maintenance.

When you order your turf make sure you arrange for its arrival on a day when you are available to lay it. It is important to lay your turf as soon as possible after it arrives to ensure success.

If you have had to leave it sitting for a while, give it a good watering before you begin to lay it.

You can lay turf from early autumn to late spring, as long as the ground not too dry, frozen solid, or boggy.

Laying turf is fast but it is at least 10 times more expensive than producing a lawn from seed.

Equipment Required

• A sharp spade
• A garden fork
• A garden rake
• Special lawn fertiliser
• The turf
• A wooden plank
• A sharp kitchen knife

The Process

• Dig over or fork the ground the soil removing stones and roots as you go
• Rake the soil gently until level
• Sprinkle on fertilizer at the recommended rate and rake it in
• Tread over the whole area, sinking your weight well down into your heels to consolidate the soft patches
• Rake again to cover the footprints
• Without walking on the prepared ground, lay a line of turf in a straight row along one end of the area, butting their short sides up together
• Pat down the turf with the rake head so that each turf makes contact with the soil beneath
• Place your plank on the turf row you've just laid and walk along it as you lay the next row, staggering the joints between the turf like joints in brickwork
• Repeat, patting down each new row with the rake
• When you've covered the whole area, trim the outer edge of the turfed area with a sharp kitchen knife, so the lawn edge follows the shape of your beds
• Keep the area well watered for several days until the turf has knitted together
• Continue watering during dry spells

When the grass begins to grow cut the lawn with the blades set high so that only the tips are removed. The blades can be lowered as the lawn becomes more established.

If you laid your lawn in autumn then apply a quick-acting fertiliser in April or May. You can also add a top dressing to help smooth out any bumps and hollows.

Find out how to produce a lawn from seed or click here to read other Lawn Care articles.

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