I have just removed an 8 meter long 2 + metre high leylandii and the stumps have been ground out. I want to plant an evergreen hedge as quick growing as possible, please can you advise a variety that might be suitable, and does the earth need feeding in preparation. The position is west facing.

Answer:

That sounds like a big job, but it will be worth it in the long run :-)

One of the best true evergreen hedges is often though to be old fashioned but the Privet is fast growing and can tolerate poor soil so on-going soil enrichment isn't as vital. New plants should be cut back hard after planting then it is just a matter of pruning to shape and to thicken until it reaches the required height, then prune twice a year to maintain.

Laurel (Prunus) also makes a good hedge (choose P. laurocerasus or P. lusitanica) but it does need plenty of room and should, ideally, be pruned with secateurs rather than shears to avoid cutting the large leaves.

Yew (Taxus baccata) makes a thick, dense hedge which can look beautiful if maintained regularly. Unfortunately it is very slow growing so may not be suitable.

There are lots of plants suitable for hedging so I have attached a link to Crocus.co.uk which shows a good variety of plants for you to look through. This will give you more information on each plant, a picture, care instructions and also tells you how large they grow so you can work out how many plants you will need. I trust it will be of use.

As for preparation, here are some pointers:

• Choose healthy plants either bare rooted or container grown, at this time of year and through to the end of spring, bare rooted plants will be best and they are a lot cheaper than pot grown.
• I assume since you have removed all the roots and stumps of the Leylandii that there is an empty trench. If so fill with top soil mixed with a good amount of well rotted farmyard manure which will add bulk and help drainage. This should be all you will need to do with the hedge for many years.
• When you get the plants home stand them in buckets of water until you are ready to plant them out, it is important that the roots don’t dry out.
• The plants will need some support until they get established so it is worth while erecting the support before you start planting. Stretch a thick wire down the length of the row, the plants will be attached to the wire. Alternatively use individual stakes for each plant.
• You have two ways of planting, single or double row. A staggered, double row will result in a thicker hedge more quickly.
• Plant at regular intervals in holes big enough not to constrict the roots, making sure that they are planted at the level of the old soil mark. Sprinkle a handful of bone meal into each planting hole. Push the soil gently around the roots using your fingers to ensure there are no air pockets below the roots, gradually fill the hole firming as you go.
• Water in very well and apply a mulch of well rotted farmyard manure to help retain moisture and keep down weeds.
• If the weather is dry you should water every day that you don’t get rain.
• Prune immediately after planting, check the label for details, but as a rule they should be reduced by half their height. There is no need to prune again during their first year.
• In the second year clip lightly about four times between May and August. This may seem that it is taking growth off the hedge and therefore it will take longer to grow, but this trimming is important to help thicken the plants and build a nice shape. You should be aiming to have the top narrower than the bottom, if the bottom is narrower it will be in too much shade and will eventually loose it’s leaves.
• Once the hedge has reached the height you want trim anytime between May and August to keep it tidy and maintain the shape. Try to leave some new growth each time you trim to avoid bare spots.

Once you decide on the plant you want, let me know what you have chosen and I’ll double check the exact pruning regime.

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Can't stop admiring all the red ivy that seems to be on every wall and garden shed at the moment..... except mine! Can you suggest a good red ivy that I can plant on my east facing garden wall? Meg

Answer:

Hello, thank you for your email. Yes, the red climbers are lovely aren’t they?

There are two plants which will do the job, Boston Ivy and Virginia Creeper. They are both quite vigorous so will need some space and they will need some sort of support until they are established. Well worth the effort though.

Click on the links to find out more about each plant.

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I bought a 5 foot Cercidiphyllum Japonicum this summer and have been giving it plenty of water. It is now shedding its leaves quite quickly and they look fairly dried up. As yet they have not turned that lovely burnt pinkish orange colour. They are mostly green still and some yellow.

Can you tell me if this tree is dying and if so what I can do to restore it please?

Answer:

I have this tree too and the leaves never actually goes red, like yours, the leaves just go yellow before they shed and at the moment they are looking very dry. Fortunately I am getting the burnt sugar fragrance which is great.

I don't think it is dying and I suspect over the years it will get better as it settles in. I would give it a good thick layer of mulch to help protect it over the winter and hopefully next autumn you will get a better display.

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To keep roses free from disease and bugs what can I plant with them to achieve this and make my garden chemical free.

Answer:

There are several points to bear in mind to reduce problems with roses:

• Buy good quality plants with good disease resistances
• Check the plants for any signs of infection or infestation and avoid any with growth on the soil surface
• Always rake up and dispose of prunings and fallen leaves to help avoid fungal diseases
• Prepare the soil well before planting to ensure good drainage and avoid waterlogging
• Don’t plant roses too close together to allow air to circulate
• Prune out the centre of plants to open it up
• Feed regularly with Potash to build up disease resistance and Phosphates to promote a healthy root system; a special rose feed will do
• Inspect your roses regularly to catch problems early; pick off or squash insects and remove infected leaves and stems as soon as they are seen
• Encourage birds into your garden to eat insects including Aphids; erect feeding stations and always have a source of water for bathing and drinking

Ladybirds can eat more than 5,000 aphids in a year so encourage them by keeping a small patch of nettles in your garden; a favourite for egg laying. Ladybirds also need somewhere to hibernate over the winter and a favourite place for them is in clump-forming grasses such as pampas grass or you can buy ladybird houses in garden centres and online.

You should also get to know what the ladybird larvae looks like so that you don’t dispose of them by mistake. They are about half a centimetre long and have dark grey, segmented bodies with yellow spots down each side. Here’s a picture to help.

Companion planting can help reduce diseases and infestations but be careful not to overplant beneath roses as it could rob them of moisture and nutrients making them more prone to diseases:

• Members of the onion family such as chives, ornamental alliums, and edible onions, are said to improve the perfume of roses, prevent black spot and to ward off aphids
• Aromatic plants make good companions in particular herbs such as parsley, thyme, sage and oregano; try some of the following too:
  • Scented geraniums (Pelargonium)
  • Feverfew
  • Marigolds
  • Russian-sage (Perovskia)
  • Lavender
  • Yarrow (Achillea)
  • Catmint (Nepeta)

This Question came from Diane Wood in Whaley Bridge but I was unable to reply in person due to an incorrect email address. I hope you get to read my reply Diane!

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I recently got involved has a volunteer in creating a community garden for elderly people the area we have was very overgrown we have now hacked it all to the ground with strimmers etc. but I have a idea that the weeds etc. will soon shoot up again.

I would like some advice on a good economical weedkiller has its a large area somebody mentioned something called weed matting is this easy to lay and expensive or inexpensive and above all effective and would that enable a lawn to be laid on top.

Answer:

It looks like you've taken on a massive job here but I'm sure it will be worth while in the end.

There are a few ways to remove the weeds. The first, and the hardest, is to dig over the whole area and remove the weeds by hand. Don't be tempted to use a rotavator because this will chop up and spread perennial weed roots far and wide, making the weed problem much worse.

Leave the land for a few weeks during which time any annual weed seeds left will germinate and these can be removed by hand. Don't add them to the compost heap as perennial weed seeds will remain in the soil.

If you don't fancy digging, wait until new weed shoots appear and apply weedkiller containing glyphosate. I've done a bit of research and found the following weedkillers which sound good. You should be able to get them at your local garden centre or DIY store:

• Weedol 2 - An economical weedkiller that can be used all round the garden except on lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn't harm the soil so seeding or planting can be carried out immediately after treatment. Young green suckers of roses, lilac and plums can also be killed without harming the rootstock. Effective at any time of the year, Weedol is rainproof in 10 minutes. Contains diquat. Keep away from children and pets. 12 sachet carton treats 204m.
• Roundup Weedkiller - will completely kill all weeds and roots. Children and pets don't need to be excluded from treated areas as it is biodegradable and starts to break down as soon as it touches the soil. It contains the chemical glyphosate and includes measuring cap for easy measuring. Do not use on lawns or other wanted plants as it will kill everything plant it touches. 280ml treats 280m.

Here are a few general rules to bear in mind when using weedkiller:

• Read the manufacturer's instructions to be sure you are using the right weedkiller for the job
• Keep weedkiller off plants that you want to keep
• Dissolve/dilute the weedkiller according to instructions on the packaging and apply weeds using a fine rose (sprinkler head) on a watering can which you only use for weedkiller
• Don't apply on a windy day because weedkillers can drift onto other plants
• The most effective time to apply weedkillers is when weeds are leafy and growing actively, mid-spring to early summer is ideal
• Keep weedkillers in a safe place, out of reach from children and pets. When empty, dispose of them carefully.

Not all weeds will die so repeat applications may be needed.

The final method to control weeds is to cover the ground with sheets of black plastic or old carpet. Emerging weed shoots won't get any light and will starve and die. This may take a couple of years to be 100 per cent effective. You will be able to lay your lawn over the area once all the weeds have died. You may need to weed and feed the lawn after the first year to ensure new weeds don't take hold.

For areas which are not going to be lawned you will need to ensure the weeds don't come back. To help keep them to a minimum add a mulch of bark, compost, manure, gravel or slate. In addition you can also use a weed-proof membrane which is made of woven polypropylene. Lay this on top of the soil and add the mulch on top of that. Plant through the membrane by cutting crosses in the material. Again, the membrane will be available at your local garden centre or DIY store.

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Hello, I have just moved house and inherited a large pampas grass which is approx 10 feet across and is overhanging the footpath and my driveway, it also has last seasons plumes and appears very dense with previous dead foliage, the centre of the plant approx 3 feet in diameter appears mostly dead foliage with no green leaves in the middle, my questions are, is it too late (31 May) to cut the plant back so i can reduce its diameter? will it damage the plant if i remove the dead foliage as the plant looks very untidy? and do you think it sounds like the middle has died.

Answer:

Pampas Grass is a very tough plant and it is practically impossible to harm it by accident and in fact it often needs brute force to keep it under control.

The best time to remove any dead material from the centre is January or February but as long as you are not too bothered about new plumes this year then you could get stuck in now. You can also cut off any dead or broken plumes and leaves to help tidy it up and dig out or cut down any unwanted external growth to keep the width down. The roots of the pampas grass are very tough and difficult to remove so it is probably easier just to keep it cut back. If you feel you can cope with removing some of the roots to reduce the size then have a go as it won’t kill the plant.

Going forward in late winter or early spring trim back all the dead foliage and comb out any dead material from the centre of the plant. Give it a general feed with a base fertiliser such a Growmore or Fish, Blood and Bone Meal, if we have a dry summer you may need to water it occasionally otherwise no other care is required.

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Some of my onions, which were planted from sets, are starting to form seed heads. Is it better to leave them alone, cut off seed heads and leave or should I just lift and use these onions.

Answer:

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When can I cut back the leaves of tulips after they have finished blooming or is it better to lift them and replant in autumn?

Answer:

You should cut off the flower stem once the flower has faded then wait at least six weeks before cutting back the leaves; ideally wait until the leaves are yellow and straw-like. During this time you should continue to water and feed.

You don’t have to lift the bulbs but if you need to move them you can lift them once the leaves have died down. Check the bulbs over and discard any which are damaged or diseased. Trim back the roots of each bulb and lay them on a tray to dry off for about a day. Dust lightly with sulphur to help prevent fungal rot. Store in a dry, cool place until the autumn when they can be planted in their new location.

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I hope you can help, My family and I have just moved into a nice house in Kent and look forward to enjoying our new garden especially with our new daughter who is currently 6 months old. The problem I have is that the garden seems to be infested with a strange mushroom like plant. I dont think it is a mushroom though and am worried that it might be of danger to my daughter or pets. The plant/mushroom whatever is brown in colour and had a hard top/cap to it. The seem to be growing everywhere, in the grass, between the house and patio, in gaps in the patio... everywhere really.

Answer:

When I first saw your photographs I was stumped but with a little research I found that it is indeed Horsetail or Mare’s tail (Equisetum arvense). It changes its appearance throughout the year; by summer the “mushroom” looking tops will be replaced with green fir-like stems which you will probably recognise.

It is not a danger to people or animals but it is very difficult to eradicate as it has creeping rhizomes which can go as deep as 2m below the surface and often spreads underground from neighbouring properties or land.

Removal by hand is difficult but you may be able to remove some of the rhizomes growing near the surface with a fork. However the more deeper roots will take a lot of digging and it is worth remembering that if even a small piece of root remains in the ground it will grow on quite quickly. Over a number of years you can reduce the spread by removing young shoots as soon as they appear above the ground. Any growing in your lawn can be kept down by regular mowing.

It is possible to weaken the infestation using weedkiller but you will need to be careful when using near other plants or the lawn. Try weedkillers containing glyphosate, e.g. Roundup or Tumbleweed; applying in late summer when growth is strong. You can also try Glufosinate ammonium, e.g. FITO Garden Weedkiller and Knockdown Weedkiller which may also weaken the root system. In all cases, before using, bruise the shoots to ensure that the weedkiller penetrates effectively and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

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What is the soil preparation required prior to planting spring grown sweet peas to ensure maximum summer flowers.

Answer:

Sweet Peas like a well cultivated soil so dig the planting area well adding some well-rotted manure to the soil. If you have a particularly heavy soil add some grit to aid drainage, if your soil is particularly sandy add more manure. Plant the seedlings 8-12ins apart and protect from slugs and snails. To get the most of the flowers plant in an open sunny position and pick the flowers regularly to make the plant produce more.

Here in the North West, as you know, we have had very low night time temperatures and even frost so it may be wise to wait a week or so to ensure that today’s weather continues.

Ensure that you harden off the seedlings in a cold frame before planting in their final position.

To find out more, visit our How to Grow Fragrant Sweet Peas article.

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