How to Grow Potatoes
September 5, 2011 by Linda
Filed under How to Grow
There are three types of potatoes; first earlies, second earlies and maincrop.
First earlies provide new potatoes suitable for salads second earlies fill in the gap between the first earlies and the main crop. Main Crop can be used straight from the ground or can be stored for use over Winter.
Potatoes are produced from seed potatoes which should be from certified virus free plants and ideally the size of a hen's egg. Before planting they should be chitted to produce small, strong shoots.
Chitting: Place the seed potatoes in egg boxes or seed trays, eyed end up, and keep in a light, frost-free room for about six weeks to allow the shoots to develop.
Plant as detailed below. When the stems are about 9ins tall pile loose earth up around the stems to leave a couple of inches above the soil. Keep earthing-up, a little at a time, until the stems stop growing. This earthing-up helps to stop the potatoes going green.
Ensure that the crop are kept well watered during dry weather and to avoid problems next year ensure the whole crop is removed from the soil.
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Potato |
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Sowing Time |
Planting Time |
Soil |
Spacing |
Cutting / Lifting Time |
Storage |
Cooking |
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First Earlies e.g. Foremost, Rocket, Home Guard, Maris Bard |
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n/a |
Late March |
Can be grown in any soil preferably in a sunny spot. Dig in the Autumn and add manure or compost. Never add lime. Don't grow on land where potatoes have been grown within past two seasons. |
Plant each seed potato 12ins apart in rows 24ins apart. |
Lift once flowers are fully open; usually June or July. |
Should not be stored, lift when small and treat as new potatoes. |
New potatoes should be washed, not peeled, and boiled for 12 mins. |
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Second Earlies e.g. Charlotte, Anya, Maris Peer, Wilja |
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n/a |
Early-mid April |
Can be grown in any soil preferably in a sunny spot. Dig in the Autumn and add manure or compost. Never add lime. Don't grow on land where potatoes have been grown within past two seasons. |
Plant each seed potato 12ins apart in rows 24ins apart. |
Lift once flowers are fully open; usually July or August |
Should not be stored, lift when small and treat as new potatoes. |
New potatoes should be washed, not peeled, and boiled for 12 mins. |
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Maincrop e.g. Maris Piper, King Edward, Desiree, Pink Fir Apple |
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n/a |
Mid-late April |
Can be grown in any soil preferably in a sunny spot. Dig in the Autumn and add manure or compost. Never add lime. Don't grow on land where potatoes have been grown within past two seasons. |
Plant each seed potato 15ins apart in rows 30ins apart. |
Wait until the stems have withered. Cut stems to the ground, wait 10 days and lift. Usually ready August to eat immediately or leave until September or early October before storing. |
Leave to dry out then place in a wooden box and leave in a frost-free shed until needed. They should last until Spring. |
Scrubbed or scraped, cut into chunks and cooked for 15-20 mins. Parboil for 5 mins before roasting for 45 mins. |
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Trouble |
Symptoms |
Treatment |
Prevention |
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Plant infested with greenfly. |
Spray at first sign of attack |
None |
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Blackened stems at and below ground level. Leaves turn yellow and wilt. |
None |
Do not plant soft or rotten seed tubers and don't cut tubers |
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Small brown spots in leaves, later turn into holes |
Spray if attack is bad, will not affect yield |
None |
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Ragged-edged scurfy patches. Only on the skin, the flesh is not affected. |
None |
Buy healthy seed tubers. Do not Lime. |
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Shrunken area with white pustules occur during storage. |
None |
Rotate crops. Ensure tubers are sound before storing and handle carefully. |
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Black stems or yellow patches on leaves |
None |
Cover if frost is expected |
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Seed potatoes do not develop shoots |
None |
Buy healthy seed tubers and ensure they are kept in a frost-free location |
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Dark brown depressions on the surface of the tuber |
None |
Store only sound tubers and keep air and frost-free |
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Hollow centre of tubers |
None |
Keep well watered during dry spells |
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Leaves are rolled upwards and become hard and brittle |
None |
Buy healthy seed tubers. Spray to control the virus-carrying aphids. |
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Yellow or pale green mottling over the surface of the leaf |
None |
Buy healthy seed tubers. Spray to control the virus-carrying aphids. |
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Yellowing between the veins of the leaves which turns brown and brittle. Stunted growth. |
Apply MultiTonic and spray with Fillip |
Feed regularly during the growing season using a fertiliser with magnesium |
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Brown patches on the leaves with white mould on the underside of each spot. Can destroy all the foliage. grey patches below the skin. |
None |
Buy healthy seed tubers. Spray with Dithane in July and repeat every fortnight if the weather is damp. Keep earthed up. |
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Weak and stunted plants. Small tubers produced |
None |
Rotate crops. Don't grow potatoes or tomatoes on infected land for at least six years |
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Round patches with raised margins on the skin. |
None |
Rotate crops |
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Hollow stems causing plants to die down early |
None |
None |
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Deep cracks on surface of tubers |
None |
Do not store. Keep plants well watered during dry spells. |
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Large holes in the tubers |
None |
Don't add too much manure and lift tubers as soon as they mature. Keep the area free of rubbish. |
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Curved lines in the flesh |
None |
Rotate crops |
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Soft, evil-smelling flesh |
None |
Store only sound tubers and keep dry |
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Thin shoots |
Stand tubers in a light cool place |
Buy healthy seed tubers and ensure they are sprouted in a light, frost-free location. |
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Soft and rubbery tubers |
None |
Water well during drought conditions |
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Orange, shiny larvae produce tunnels in the flesh of tubers |
None |
Rake Chlorophos into the soil before planting and lift tubers as soon as they are mature. |
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Black warty outgrowths on tubers |
None |
Only plant immune varieties on infected land |
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